FREE PATTERN: The Blanket Stitch, Squared

Hey everyone!

I'm so excited to share a new free pattern with you today! I've been hankering for an easy evening crochet project and decided to make another Wrap with Love blanket. I wondered - could I make this easier for myself and do the same lovely squishy stitch pattern in the round rather than back and forth?

With a bit of experimentation and maths (I never thought I'd do this much maths in my life), I've got it! 

Without further ado, The Blanket Stitch, Squared :D 

Queue or favourite it on Ravelry here: 

https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/the-blanket-stitch-squared 

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FREE PATTERN: THE BLANKET STITCH, SQUARED
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Finished size: 10" / 25cm 

Materials

40g DK/8 ply yarn
4.5mm hook
Scissors
Yarn needle

This pattern uses all US terminology

MC - magic circle (tutorial from Every Trick on the Hook)

st - stitch 
slst - slip stitch

ch - chain

sc - single crochet

hdc - half double crochet

dc - double crochet

Blanket stitch block: (sc, 2dc)

Directions:

Make a magic circle.

Round 1 - Into MC, (sc, 2dc) 4 times. slst to first sc, ch1 and turn. (1 block on each side)

Round 2 - In the stitch you just joined to in the round below (so just behind your working yarn), (sc, 2dc, sc, 2dc). *Skip 2st, (sc, 2dc, sc, 2dc) into the next st, which is the sc from the previous round* Repeat * to * 3 times. slst to first sc, ch1 and turn. (2 blocks on each side)

NOTE: Each stitch that has two blocks in it (i.e. sc, 2dc, sc, 2dc) is a corner! In the next row, the corner is worked in the central sc which is bolded above.

Round 3 - In the stitch you just joined to in the round below (so just behind your working yarn), (sc, 2dc). *Skip 2st, (sc, 2dc, sc, 2dc) into the next st, which is the sc from the previous round, skip 2st, (sc, 2dc) in next stitch* Repeat * to * around your square. slst to first sc, ch1 and turn. (3 blocks on each side)

Rounds 4-14 - Repeat Row 3, adding one more blanket stitch block (sc, 2dc) in between the corners of each row. Measure your square after Row 14 to see if you're close to 10"/25cm; if not, do another row or two! 

Round 15 - (make sure you turned at the end of Row 14!) sc in each stitch. In corner sc, work (hdc, ch2, hdc). slst to first sc to finish, cut yarn and weave in ends.

FREE PATTERN: Modern Heirloom Blanket by Tracey Cooper

Hi everyone!

We have a very special treat for you today - a guest post and free pattern by designer Tracey Cooper! You can find Tracey at Cooper's Craft Corner on Facebook and Instagram. We have watched this blanket grow over the last few months and it is just gorgeous - enjoy :)

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Thank you so much Michelle and Anne the help and support you have extended to a new designer. 

I have been a crochet addict for as long as I can remember. While I have over 20 years experience in designing my own patterns this is the first one I have shared. 

This pattern was designed for a client who wanted a timeless yet modern blanket. Versatile enough to be used as a throw or bed spread, modern enough to be seen by visitors.

The natural fibers chosen by the client give this blanket a soft and silky feel while providing the warmth and cosy feeling of wool. I love the way natural fibers breathe, they keep the warm in while letting the sticky feeling out. 

This pattern is super easy and a great piece to work on while 'netflix and chilling' on these cool winter evenings.

 

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MODERN HEIRLOOM BLANKET by Tracey Cooper

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Queue or favourite on Ravelry here: http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/modern-heirloom-blanket

View or Download PDF here: Modern Heirloom Blanket 

Difficulty: Easy / Beginner

Materials:

7 x 200g balls Bendigo Woollen Mills Stellar 8ply in 154 Malachite

4mm/G crochet hook

Tapestry needle

Stitches:

This pattern uses US terminology.

dc = double crochet

ch = chain

fdc = chainless foundation double crochet. There is a fantastic tutorial for foundation half double crochet here. The foundation double crochet is done exactly the same way except you dc instead of hdc.

In this pattern I have used the chainless turn. When starting a new row, pull your loop up to the height of a DC stitch, then dc in the first stitch. Alternatively you can turn and chain 2 as the first dc in each row, skipping the first stitch.  

Gauge doesn't really matter for this pattern. My gauge was 25 stitches per 20cm of fdc unblocked, which gave a finished and blocked size of 162cm x 172cm. 

Thie pattern can be sized up or down by starting with a multiple of 3 + 2 fdc starting stitches.

INSTRUCTIONS

Row 1: 299 fdc. This will give you a first row of 299 dc (299)

From now on you will work all your stitches through the front loop only of the below stitch. 

Row 2: Turn. dc in the next 2 stitches going through the front loop of the stitch only, *ch1, skip 1 stitch. dc in the next 2 stitches* repeat to end of row. You will end up with 100 groups of 2dc and 99 ch1 spaces (200dc + 99ch).

Row 3: Turn. dc in the front loop of each stitch (299)

Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until you have 115 rows, ending on a Row 3.

Weave in all your ends and block for best results.

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Thank you so much Tracey for sharing your gorgeous pattern with us <3 

FREE PATTERN: Origami Mystique Bag!

Hey everyone!

I'm so excited to share this pattern with you! Stylecraft sent me a bunch of their new-ish Mystique tape yarn (one ball of each colour) to have a play with, and as soon as I picked it up, the idea for this bag immediately popped into my head. I wanted to make something with flat, shaped pieces that then folded up like origami (Japanese paper craft) and crocheted together - so now I present the Origami Mystique Bag! Using just 4 balls of Mystique, this lovely no-sew bag is just the right size for 4 balls of Tweedy yarn ;) 

A little bit about the yarn first... Mystique is a non-woven tape yarn, made of polyester and viscose. It looks like a ribbon, and feels like someone put the fabricky-papery stuff hospital gowns are made of through a shredder. Don't let that put you off though - it is super soft, washes well, and crochets very nicely as a worsted/12 ply yarn. 

I have used four different colours as that's what I had and I quite like the ombre effect, but this bag would also be lovely in just two colours, one for each piece!

This is the first completed and published pattern I used my design journal for; it works! :D 

I hope you have as much fun making this bag as I did :) Queue or favourite it on Ravelry here: http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/origami-mystique-bag

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FREE PATTERN: ORIGAMI MYSTIQUE BAG
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Finished size: 27cm x 8cm base, 12cm(centre)-20cm high, +65cm strap

Materials

- 4 balls of Stylecraft Mystique (50g each)
- 5mm/H hook and 6mm/J hook
- 1"/2.5cm button
- Large yarn needle
- Scissors

All stitches are in US/American terminology

fsc - foundation sc (tutorial here)
ch - chain
sc - single crochet
slst - slip stitch


Instructions

Make two identical pieces, which we will then fold together to make the origami bag!

(Base)
Row 1: 10fsc. ch1, turn.

Rows 2-39: sc in each sc. ch1, turn.

Row 40: sc in each sc. DO NOT TURN.

(Side panel)

Row 41: ch 41. turn, sc in 2nd ch from hook and then each ch until you get back to the base. sc across end of base. 40fsc (start your first fsc in the side of the last base stitch). ch1, turn.

Row 42: sc in each fsc and sc of Row 41. ch1, turn.

Rows 43-62: skip first sc. sc in each sc. ch1, turn.

[At the end of Row 62 you should have 90sc]

Rows 63-72: skip first sc, slst in second sc, sc in third sc. sc in each sc, finishing in the 3rd last sc. ch1, turn.

[At the end of Row 72 you should have 10sc, and those 10sc will be in line with your base!]

(Strap)

Rows 73-111: sc in next 10sc. Ch1, turn.

Row 112: sc in next 10sc. Finish off.

For Piece 2, do not finish off after Row 112; rather we will join the two strap pieces together. 

Strap Join: Ch1, turn. *sc in next sc, slst into adjacent sc on the end of the strap of Piece 1*. Repeat * to * to the end of the row. Finish off.

Now you have a very long, very strangely shaped single piece of crochet fabric. This photo is just of one piece, before joining the strap.

Edging

With your joining colour, join yarn with an sc in the end of Row 41 (at the corner of the triangle). Sc along the diagonal edge of the triangle, then along the strap, and back down the other side, finishing off at the opposite corner of the opposite triangle. Repeat on the other side.

Time to do some origami!

Construction

Place the two base pieces on top of each other, mirror image (so, you have one side triangle on each end). Pin the bases together to keep them secure while we mess around with the side panels.

Take the corners of the side triangle and pin them to the opposite end of the base. You can put one piece on the outside and one on the inside, or one each way on each side - it's totally up to you. Pin these together as well. Next, take your joining colour and the 6mm hook and single crochet the base and sides together. This is a bit hard going as you're working through 3 or 4 stitches at a time! At the short ends, don't forget to catch the end of the base piece as you work through the folded fabric.

Now we need to join the side pieces together so that your bag can actually hold something! Using the 6mm hook, join your joining yarn with a slst in one corner of the base where a side edge is on the outside. slst the two side pieces together in a straight line up to the middle of your bag. Pull your working loop through to the inside of the bag. The next bit can be a bit tricky - slst the inside edging to the outside layer of the bag, but just using loops on the back so that it doesn't show through to the front. 

Outside

Inside

Repeat on the other side, but this time, before you pull your working loop through in the middle, ch10 and slst to the last slst you did. This creates your button loop! Continue slipstitching the two pieces together along the inside. 

Sew on your button, weave in the ends, and you're done!

FREE PATTERN: Super Simple Tea Cosy

Hey everyone!

Do you ever have those days, where you just want to make a thing but can't find a pattern that works nicely?? Well, one morning a few weeks ago, my brain decided I needed a tea cosy. Nothing fancy, or smothered in roses - just a super simple practical tea cosy that would keep my teapot warm in between cups of tea.

I looked at soooooo many patterns on Ravelry. But none of them really waved their spouts around saying "Pick me! Make me!" I tried a few, but they didn't end up fitting my beautiful Swiss teapot...

Long story short, I made my own up using Stylecraft's super soft and self-striping Merry-Go-Round yarn! And then I made another one. And then I used the same instructions but changed the size to fit my smaller teapot. I liked it so much, I thought some of you might like it too :) 

You can find, queue and favourite this pattern on Ravelry at http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/super-simple-tea-cosy 

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PATTERN: SUPER SIMPLE TEA COSY
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Fits 1L teapot (but easily adaptable!)

Use selfstriping yarn and this hdc pattern to create a plain and simple tea cosy! You can then leave it as is, or embellish however you like :)

Materials
25g Stylecraft Wondersoft Merry-Go-Round
4mm/G hook
Scissors
Yarn needle

This pattern uses all US terminology
slst - slip stitch
ch - chain
sc - single crochet
hdc - half double crochet
hdc2tog - half double crochet decrease (tutorial at http://www.interweave.com/article/crochet/half-double-crochet-two-together-hdc2tog/)
fhdc - foundation half double crochet (tutorial at http://crochetbetweentwoworlds.blogspot.com.au/2014/09/tutorial-foundation-half-double-crochet.html )

Notes:

- Turn after each row, even when working in the round
- Turning chain does not count as a stitch
- You can decorate with appliques, roses, stars, curly bits - the options are endless!

How to change the size:

- Have your teapot with you (and empty!) to make sure it fits properly
- If your teapot is wider or narrower, increase or decrease the fhdc as required but make sure you have an odd number.
- The formula for working out the number of stitches in your side panels is (fhdc-3) divided by 2
- If your teapot is taller or shorter, increase or decrease the number of rows in the side panels, making sure you have an even number.
- Smaller teapots don't usually have a much smaller spout or handle, so you shouldn't need to alter that part of the instructions :) 

Directions:

Row 1: 63 fhdc, slst to top of first fhdc. Ch2, turn.

Row 2: hdc in each st, slst to top of first hdc. Ch2, turn.

Row 3: repeat Row 2.

Row 4: hdc in each st, DO NOT JOIN. Ch2, turn.

Row 5: repeat Row 4.

Now we are going to start the side panel of the tea cosy. If you have increased or decreased the number of fhdc, use the formula above to find out how wide your side panels need to be!

Row 6: hdc in next 30 st, DO NOT JOIN. Ch2, turn.

Mark the 4th stitch in Row 5 after the 30hdc of Row 6.

Rows 7-11: repeat Row 6. Finish off after Row 11, omitting final ch2.

Next job: the panel on the other side! Row 6a will go in the same direction as Row 6.

Row 6a: join yarn with slst in marked stitch of Row 5. Ch2, hdc in same st. hdc in next 29 st (this should bring you back around to the last unworked stitch of Row 5). Ch2, turn.

Row 7a: hdc in next 30st. Ch2, turn.

Rows 8a-11a: repeat Row 7a. DO NOT FINISH OFF.

Row 12: hdc in next 30st. ch3, hdc in next 30 st. slst join to first hdc. Ch2, turn.

Row 13: 2hdc in first st. hdc in next 29 st. 1sc in ch3 space, hdc in next 29st. 2hdc in last st. slst join to first hdc. Ch2, turn.

Row 14: hdc in next 63 st. slst join to first hdc. ch2, turn.

Row 15: repeat Row 14.

Row 16: *hdc in next 2 st, hdc2tog* repeat ** to last 3 st. hdc in last 3 st. slst join to first hdc. ch2, turn.

Row 17: *hdc, hdc2tog*, repeat ** to end of row. slst join to first hdc, ch2, turn.

Row 18: Repeat Row 17.

Row 19: hdc2tog around. slst join to first hdc2tog. DO NOT TURN.

Row 20: ch1. *sc in next st, 3ch* repeat around. slst join to first sc. finish off and weave in ends.peat around. slst join to first sc. Finish off and weave in ends.

Muster: The Last Butterfly Schal (German)

Hallo ihr Lieben,

anbei findet ihr die Übersetzung des "The Last Butterfly"-Schal von Michelle.

Das Muster nutzt zwei Maschenarten, deren deutsche Übersetzung ich nicht finden konnte. Wenn ihr den deutschen Begriff kennt, freue ich mich, wenn ihr uns eine kurze Nachricht schreibt. Es handelt sich um die Maschen "Foundation Sc" und "stacked standing dc". Ich habe beiden Maschen deutsche Namen verpasst und unten im Glossar verzeichnet. 

Für beide Maschen findet ihr Anleitungen. Für die Anfangsreihen-feste-Masche gibt es die Anleitung bisher nur auf Englisch. Wenn ihr großen, großen Bedarf anmeldet, werde ich die Anleitung in der Zukunft auch in Deutsche übersetzen.

Wenn ihr damit Probleme habt, meldet euch gerne - wir können euch sicher helfen. Am einfachsten ist es, wenn ihr uns auf Facebook schreibt.

Die Übersetzung ist leider nicht testgehäkelt. Ich habe mir größte Mühe gegeben, aber natürlich kann sich immer mal ein kleiner Fehler einschleichen. Solltet ihr einen entdecken oder glauben, einen entdeckt zu haben, schreibt mir doch bitte ganz fix! Danke!

Herzliche Grüße

Anne

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Der letzte Schmetterling - Schal

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Maße

165cm x 20cm

Materialien

-      Wolltraum Glitter Party 150g (Farbe: "The Last Unicorn")

-      3,5 mm Häkelnadel

-      Nähnadel

-      Schere

Abkürzungen

AfM: Anfangsreihen-Feste-Masche („Foundation Row“ – eine Bilderanleitung findest du hier)

Lm: Luftmasche

fM: Feste Masche

Stb: Stäbchen

DStb: Doppelstäbchen

gStb: Gestabeltes Stb (fM in die Zielmasche, führe die Nadel unten den äußersten zwei linken Fäden der fM hindurch, Faden aufnehmen und eine zweite fM häkeln. S. Fotoanleitung)

Anleitung

Anfangsreihe: 359AfM, 1Lm, wenden.  Um den Schal kürzer oder länger zu machen, brauchst du nur 14 AfM abziehen oder hinzufügen.

Reihe 1: gStb in die erste Masche, *Stb in die nächsten 7 Masche, 7Lm, überspringe 7 Maschen* wiederhole zwischen den ** bis zum Ende der Reihe, Stb in die letzte 8 Maschen, 1Lm, wenden.

Reihe 2: Wiederhole Reihe 1.

Reihe 3: gStb in die erste Masche, Stb in die nächsten 6 (Stb-)Maschen, *2Stb in die nächste Masche, 2Lm, DStb in die 4. übersprungene Masche der Anfangsreihe und umschließe damit die Lm-Kette aus Reihe 2, 2Lm, 2Stb in die nächste (Stb-)Masche, Stb in die nächsten 5 (Stb-)Maschen*,  wiederhole zwischen den ** bis zum Ende der Reihe, Stb in die letzten 2 Maschen, 1Lm, wenden.

Reihe 4: fM in die erste Masche, fM in die nächsten 8 Maschen, *2fM in den 2Lm Zwischenraum, fM in das DStb, 2fM in den 2Lm Zwischenraum, fM in die nächsten 9 Maschen, wiederhole zwischen den ** bis zum Ende der Reihe, 1Lm, wenden.

Reihe 5: gStb in die erste Masche, Stb in die nächsten 14 Masche, *7Lm, überspringe 7 Masche, Stb in die nächsten 7 Maschen, wiederhole zwischen den ** bis zum Ende der Reihe, Stb in die letzten 8 (Stb)-Maschen, 1Lm, wenden.

Reihe 6: Wiederhole Reihe 5.

Reihe 7: gStb in die erste Masche, Stb in die nächsten 13 Maschen, *2Stb in die nächste (Stb-)Masche, 2Lm, DStb in die 4. übersprungene Masche der 4.Reihe und umschließe damit die Lm-Ketten, 2Lm, 2Stb in die nächste Masche, Stb in die nächsten 5 (Stb-)Maschen*, wiederhole zwischen den ** bis zum Ende der Reihe, Stb in die letzten 9 (Stb-)Masche, 1Lm, wenden.

Reihe 8: fM in die erste Masche, fM in die nächsten 15 Masche, *2fm in den 2Lm Zwischenraum, fm in das DStb, 2fm in den 2Lm Zwischenraum, fm in die nächsten 9 Maschen, wiederhole zwischen den ** bis zum Ende der Reihe, fM in die letzten 7 Maschen, 1Lm, wenden.

Wiederhole die Reihen 1-8 zweimal, dann schließe einmal die Reihen 1-4 an. Masche am Ende von Reihe 4 ab.

Vernähe die Enden und blocke den Schal. Benutze dazu unbedingt genügend Stecknadeln, so dass man die Schmetterlinge hinterher gut sehen kann und sie ihre glitzernden Flügel ausbreiten können!